A letter to Lynn Rossetto Kasper

Hello,
I love the show!
I wanted to share some of what I think are important points regarding duck confit. Adam's recipe sounds delicious, but there are some (chefs mostly)who would agree that his recipe is NOT duck confit. I was taught by Jean Francois Taquet, who was taught by Jean Louie Palladin that duck confit is a process which requires great care. Attention to physical detail will  effect  results in both tenderness/succulence as well as food safety/freshness.  The  steps Adam left out or misrepresented are 1. a light overnight curing of the legs is prudent to draw out some of the water content of the meat. If, while the duck is cooking,  steam pressure builds even just a touch, the meat will tighten.  This is also why we  2. never exceed 180 degrees F at any point. Really... 150 is your target, but check the usda guide lines for lowest possible safe temp. Chefs will stick there finger in the fat while it's cooking .... "you should be able to stand the pain of heat for at least 3 seconds" they'd say.  (mind you, chef hands) I've seen them put it in over night with the lowest oven flame possible, then the next mornings first task was to chill it quickly. You have to check it and try it of course....that's what a good morning looks like to a young apprentice.
Adam is right, there is lots of fat on the legs... but not enough. full submersion is necessary for confit to achieve it's potential. I've used the trick to add other fats... less expensive fats, to make sure it's topped off. Chicken fat and olive pomase  are 2 examples.

The last point is in regards to food safety/freshness. The confit will in fact preserve for weeks even months, but ONLY if there is no moisture build-up settled at the bottom(duck juices drawn out of meat during cooking).  That is part of the reason why we do a light cure and low temp. All in all, duck leg is delicious any way you slice it, just please don't over cook it. Adams 30 minute cooking as a reheat/crisping is risking dry out. best is: let come to room temp, then put under broiler (not too close) to crisp.
If I was doing a dutch oven-braise duck leg, I would incorporate aromatics like blk peppercorn and fresh bay leaf; and loads of a rich fruit like dried cherries or figs or prunes. I'd cook it just like Adam said and it would rock, but I would certainly NOT call it confit. It's a French thing right?!...sigh...

I hope this doesn't come off too snooty, I guess I just believe some things are sacred. Duck confit would be one of those things.

Thanks so much to you and to Adam, you both do such awesome work!
Cheers,
John